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Da Pipeline Bra...

09/02/2010

Well the famous Pipeline broke over the weekend in all it's glory. It sounds a little more exciting though than what it really is sometimes. With over 80 guys in the line up all desperately struggling to get their mug on the next cover, Pipe is sometimes more sickening than pleasurable.

This post is a little negative, but life is full of ups and downs, so it's all good. This wave has it's moments... when it's really big - late arvo or morning - you can get lucky and score it, but when it's the middle if the day, the sun is out and the wave is under 8ft, everyone wants their piece of the pie. I spent most of the day just watching what seemed like a million surfers and bodyboarders paddle over each other trying to get one wave at The Pipeline. It's not really what you think when you look at a nice photo of a rider riding a perfect wave with a little plant in the foreground. In reality, that rider has had to sit around for hours getting dropped in on and cleaned up by 8ft waves to snag a late drop when someone pulled back, to get a photo like that.

The question is, "Is all worth it?" Honestly, for me it's not, or at least not when it's like that. When it is worth it, is the time before the sun comes out, before the photo freaks enter the water or that lunch time break in-between shifts. The surfers over here are out of control as well. Never have I experienced so much anti-bodyboarding than in this place, it's dead set wrong. There needs to be more local bodyboarders to sort that out. They have their little local thing happening and take full advantage of the situation. Obviously they get more waves than anyone, but it's the way they go about it that is wrong. Intimation, almost "racism", is the back bone to the local attitude, and when it's a pack mentality there is little you can do about it. There are more egos on the Hawaii North Shore than anywhere in the world, and it's days like this that make you hate Hawaii. The funny thing is, if these guys were in the Canary's or even where I live, the shoe would be on the other foot. I would love to see how their egos would deal with that.

Its the days when you get that small opportunity to break out of the chains of restraint and let loose a little bit that will bring us all back. An interesting thought though is, how many people would come here if there were no contests?

Your Comments

Damian, this aggression stems from people coming from all over the world and dis-respecting our beaches and waves. I can honestly tell you if anyone that's not from Hawaii would do just that everything would be fine. How would you feel if tons of people invaded your beaches and thrashed them and cut you off it would be the same their too. Hawaiians are some of the most well respected people on earth and get a bad rap when we regulate our line ups. I get stoked when other guys come to Hawaii to experience my home, just come in mind that respect and being humble is key!!! Also I just came back from Aus, and surfed Dbah and that place was just as localized but I paddled out and was humble and respected all the locals out there and they were cooler then anything. Some guys even pushed me more to take off deeper on some of the sets... Much Respect James Kaiwi

James Kaiwi |12/02/2010|10:49 AM

bashed!!!, this place sounds terrible. i haven't been and have no intention of going to hawaii, the north shore sounds like an octogon and if you come out unscathed from there you get latched onto by the "wolfpak" or some other stupid bra boy gang crap, surfers had the entire 2 months of the season to bash the crap out of each other, least they can do is let a couple sneak through.. i saw a picture from http://jackdekortphoto.blogspot.com/ with you and Hubb, can ou give a little insight on the before and after of that "party wave".. goodluck in the comp, hope it gets 8ft plus so we see who can really surf..

toby |09/02/2010|08:29 PM

There's seem to be lot of violence this year, even more than in the recent past. We're living crazy times. One of these days, they'll start carrying guns into the water. Has riding waves come to this? When all this is over, I'd like to read your take on all of this, mate. After all, your words should have some weight, if not amongst these stupid locals, at least in the global bodyboarding community. Aloha my...####

Carlos |09/02/2010|08:26 PM

i feel the same way ,today this teenager surfer almost landed this stupid pullin aerial in my head,i jlike pipeline before ,no anymore ,the first time i surfed in 1986 was crowded to many people alot alot th attitude ,i prefer go to sandys 2ft the pipe 10ft ,better vibe and 100%bodyboarding love fun family and relaxation,come to sandys thursday south sweel in the way X

xavier |09/02/2010|07:27 PM

WAS IS BRADY RUDDY ?

MUDDA CUTA |09/02/2010|03:23 PM

Thanks mate...yeah a guy also got bashed today.

Damian King |09/02/2010|01:42 PM

Localism is plain stupid. It's not such a big planet, but there's enough for everyone. Perhaps I'm naive, but I like to consider myself just...smart. It's a matter of being civilized, I guess. And nevermind the crowds, in a few days, you'll have that heavy, beautifyl terrifying lady all (almost) for yourself. Keep your spirits up, Kingy!

Carlos |09/02/2010|01:23 AM