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Hawaii - the story so far

Well it's another day in Hawaii, and today was more like the typical day you would expect on the North Shore. With sunny skies, clean waves and a picturesque sunset; the North Shore is ticking all the boxes when it comes to cliche expectations.

As per usual I woke up early and went down to Pipe. The waves were clean and in the 8ft range. Today though, I was determined to get a couple of good waves. The first couple of days I was happy to almost sit back and mingle, but today it was time to take a more tenacious approach and I got couple of nice barrels at Pipe, which was satisfying. After the morning session I went for another surf at Rocky Point, where the photos were taken. However, it was kind of deceiving. It looked like it was going off, but once you got out there, the good ones where harder to find than you expected.

I spent the rest of the afternoon picking up a big Chevy truck - I'll take a photo tomorrow and show you. Originally I was riding a girls bike with a basket on the front and back, yes I looked very masculine. But now, yes now folks, I look like any other local cruising the North Shore - bass pumping with my elbow hanging out of the window... you should see how cool I look!!! HA! Riding is great as well, but you can do a lot of surfing over here when it’s on, and I would prefer to use my energy in the water opposed to on a bike.

The Volcom comp finished today, thank god, and now the bodyboarders are arriving by the plane load. It's almost like shift work over here - surfers leave, bodyboarders arrive.

The forecast looks insane, there are back to back swells as far as I can see on the charts. This is the best the forecast has looked for a long time. Should be an exciting couple of weeks!

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